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外婆家的味道 蒙頂山上一朵茶的回甘

來源:未知 作者:泉州茶葉網 人氣: 發布時間:2018-06-20
摘要:夏天的蒙頂山,黃桷蘭在烏龜殼似的簸箕上堆成小山,朵而會從里邊挑選出大朵的,用針線串好,放盤子里帶出門叫賣,便是她兒時的茶生意。 或者,跟任職「茶樹良種

  夏天的蒙頂山,黃桷蘭在烏龜殼似的簸箕上堆成小山,朵而會從里邊挑選出大朵的,用針線串好,放盤子里帶出門叫賣,便是她兒時的茶生意。

  或者,跟任職「茶樹良種場」場長的外婆去茶園考察。雖因小路顛簸,朵而每次都會吐在路上,但也正是在這里,她看著外婆發起建成了「牛碾坪萬畝觀光茶園」——全國最大的茶樹良種繁育基地。

  后來,回憶已被攏上薄紗,外婆想“將蒙頂山茶推到全國”的心愿,卻依舊如紗中燈芯般清晰明亮。

  再后來,朵而長大,離開茶園去北京,去旅行,去拍電影……就是不怎么回家。當她四處炫耀自己在大城市過得多充實時,全然不知小城里期盼她電話的外婆,正孤獨地老去。

  直到外婆離開,初為人母的她回到這座當初逃離過的小城,住回外婆的老屋,重返外婆的茶園,她才漸漸依戀起這個充滿至親氣息的地方,也才意識到,自己對茶的愛與責任。

  從決定做手工茶開始,茶園和土灶老鍋就成了朵而生活的全部。雖是沒做過學問的野路子,但她和母親一樣,繼承了外婆對茶的敏感,像一種天生的靈氣。

  在春茶萌動第一波,茶園內出現10%嫩芽時,朵而就要和媽媽陪茶農趁著天晴的時候從早采到晚。古人稱之為 “蒼條尋暗粒”,意思是將遮掩在枝葉暗處的新芽找出來。

  兩人每天手起手落6000次,只能采摘五斤不到的新芽,而每五斤新芽,經歷成千上萬次炒、揉,只能制成一斤茶葉

  茶葉的制作工藝既繁雜又有風險,朵而找來了經驗老道的炒茶師傅,制作全憑制茶師傅的經驗,和他對溫度、濕度與“時間的掌控,一道工序失誤,就會造成全盤報廢。

  “揚子江中水,蒙頂山上茶”,茶葉經泉水一沖泡,就可以看到它們在杯子里一朵朵的開花,朵而覺著漂亮,便取茶形以及自己名字中一字,為茶起名「一朵茶」。

  譬如明前茶,既清明前采摘的茶。經過漫長的冬季,茶樹體內的養分得以積累,此時的芽質極好,帶些許初春的寒意,稍顯高冷,卻十足有讓人驚艷的本事。

  裹得緊緊的新芽肥壯而厚實,經過悶黃和脫毫后,色澤黃潤油亮。以85攝氏度的泉水沖泡,茶芽立馬遇水沉浮,上上下下,跟跟直立。

  茶湯黃亮,豆香、蜜香、花香在茶湯中相融。輕微發酵后的黃芽將茶葉內質完全調動,一杯入喉,甜香便會從舌根處回來。

  甘露以朵而女兒名字命名,可見珍愛程度。制茶過程均是手工殺青、手工揉捻,讓鮮芽中的水分在三炒三揉后慢慢的蒸發,再烘焙成茶。

  甘露的干茶,纖細且卷曲,茶葉上白毫多。沖泡時,當茶芽遇水開花,猶如活過來。茶湯色澤嫩綠鮮亮,表面有白毫漂浮其上,帶著高山獨有的甜栗香氣,入口鮮爽回甘。

  「一朵茶」的雨前高山毛峰,茶芽生長在雨霧滋養中,就像水分飽滿的嬰兒肌,已于今年谷雨前制作完成。

  茶香馥郁,湯色亮綠,雖不及明前茶那么細嫩,但由于這時氣溫高,芽葉生長相對較快,積累的內含物也較豐富,因此滋味醇厚而耐泡。

  時至今日,朵而還時常回想,如果當初沒有去外面兜兜轉轉,而是陪伴外婆,潛心向她學茶,也許,外婆可以看到自己的寶寶出生,看到「一朵茶」對她茶事業的延續。

  可能茶人的一生,就像一條無始無終的小徑,在這小徑上,滿是茶樹。當一棵茶樹發芽,它的能量光團就會傳到下一株小茶樹上,讓它慢慢發芽,自己卻慢慢黯淡凋萎。

  朵而現在正在這團光亮之中,用「一朵茶」照耀著外婆的茶園。返回搜狐,查看更多

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