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黃茶因“香甜”而誘惑的“水舞者

來源:未知 作者:泉州茶葉網 人氣: 發布時間:2018-06-20
摘要:黑、白、綠、紅、青、黃……我國茶葉分為六大茶類,黑茶的藥香、白茶的天然、綠茶的鮮爽、紅茶的香甜、青茶的韻味都讓茶友們回味無窮。然而,作為六大茶類中相對較為少見的黃茶,在北方市場尤似“養在深閨人未識”。相信不少茶友極少喝到黃茶,甚至認為這是

  黑、白、綠、紅、青、黃……我國茶葉分為六大茶類,黑茶的藥香、白茶的天然、綠茶的鮮爽、紅茶的香甜、青茶的韻味都讓茶友們回味無窮。然而,作為六大茶類中相對較為少見的黃茶,在北方市場尤似“養在深閨人未識”。相信不少茶友極少喝到黃茶,甚至認為這是最為“神秘”的一種茶類。那么,究竟什么是黃茶,黃茶又有什么特點?本報記者來到有著“江北第一茶市”之稱的濟南茶葉批發市場(第一茶市),來尋覓黃茶的點點滴滴。

  其實,黃茶自古有之,但茶人在不同時期給予其不同的概念或者分類。歷史上最早可以翻閱到關于“黃茶”的記載,其實指的是茶樹生長后芽葉自然顯露為黃色的茶。現如今,包含在六大茶類中“黃茶”概念的茶葉,指的是君山銀針、蒙頂黃芽、北港毛尖、鹿苑毛尖、霍山黃芽、溈江白毛尖、溫州黃湯、皖西黃大茶、廣東大葉青、海馬宮茶等茶。

  在第一茶市經營君山銀針生意的徐良介紹,黃茶屬輕發酵茶類,加工工藝近似綠茶,只是在干燥過程的前或后,增加一道“悶黃”的工藝,促使其多酚葉綠素等物質部份氧化。其加工方法近似于綠茶,其制作過程為:鮮葉殺青揉捻——悶黃、干燥。黃茶的殺青、揉捻、干燥等工序均與綠茶制法相似,其最重要的工序在于悶黃,這是形成黃茶特點的關鍵,主要做法是將殺青和揉捻后的茶葉用紙包好,或堆積后以濕布蓋之,時間以幾十分鐘或幾個小時不等,促使茶坯在水熱作用下進行非酶性的自動氧化,形成黃色。

  徐良說,殺青鍋溫較綠茶鍋溫低,一般在120℃至150℃。殺青采用多悶少抖,造成高溫濕熱條件,使葉綠素受到較多破壞,多酸氧化酶、過氧化物酶失去活性,多酚類化合物在濕熱條件下發生自動氧化和異構化,淀粉水解為單糖,蛋白質分解為氨基酸,都為形成黃茶醇厚滋味及黃色創造條件。

  那么什么是“悶黃”工藝呢?他表示,悶黃是形成黃茶品質的關鍵工序。依各種黃茶悶黃先后不同,分為濕坯悶黃和干坯悶黃。簡單來說,黃茶的悶黃是在殺青基礎上進行的,雖然殺青溫度不是太高,但要求達到破壞酶的活性,制止酚類化合物的酶性氧化。如果在殺青初期和殺青后殘余酶作用存在的活,只是短暫的,極其有限的,而起主導作用的則是濕熱的作用促進葉內化學變化。水中舞者 美艷大方

  正如白毫銀針、茉莉花茶茶王、信陽毛尖等茶葉一樣,針形的君山銀針被愛茶人稱為“雖不能歌,卻極善舞”。這正是形容其茶葉形狀之美。其產地君山島,狀若青螺,被瀲滟的洞庭湖水環抱。除了君山銀針,島上還盛產相傳是娥皇女英泣淚而成的湘妃竹。

  君山銀針是黃茶中最具盛名的一種,名列中國十大名茶之中。每年只在清明前后七至十天采摘,采摘標準極為嚴苛。為了防止擦傷嬌弱的春茶嫩芽,盛茶籃要內襯白布。它的制法特點仍保持了古代“岳州黃翎毛”的傳統工藝流程,關鍵性步驟“悶黃”繁瑣耗時,全部工序歷時約72小時。

  剛沖泡的君山銀針橫臥在杯中水面,加上玻璃片蓋后,茶芽吸水下沉,芽尖產生氣泡,猶如雀舌含珠,似春筍出土。隨后,沉入杯底的直立茶芽在氣泡的浮力作用下,再次浮升,如此上下沉浮,真是讓茶人欲罷不能。

  那么,有著如此“曼妙身材”的黃茶,品飲起來又有什么好處?徐良介紹,它具有提神醒腦,消除疲勞,消食化滯等。消化不良,食欲不振、懶動肥胖、都可飲而化之。這是因為黃茶是漚茶,在漚的過程中,會產生大量的消化酶,對脾胃最有好處。(本報記者 蘆金亮)

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