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大益等3款普洱生茶茶多酚含量未達標 茶氣較弱

來源:未知 作者:泉州茶葉網 人氣: 發布時間:2018-06-20
摘要:檢測結果顯示,3款普洱生茶經典款的水浸出物、咖啡堿均符合中國標準要求且含量相差很小,但茶多酚指標均低于現行中國標準規定。而茶多酚含量低,意味著普洱茶“茶氣”較弱。 選購普洱茶時,消費者往往只能從茶餅、茶湯來挑選一款自認為還不錯的好茶。然而,

  檢測結果顯示,3款普洱生茶經典款的水浸出物、咖啡堿均符合中國標準要求且含量相差很小,但茶多酚指標均低于現行中國標準規定。而茶多酚含量低,意味著普洱茶“茶氣”較弱。

  選購普洱茶時,消費者往往只能從茶餅、茶湯來挑選一款自認為還不錯的好茶。然而,從表象真得能看清普洱茶本質嗎?

  2014年8月,《消費者報道》送檢了口碑頗高的大益、下關、老同志、勐庫戎氏等4品牌12款普洱生茶、熟茶。更直接、客觀地用內在品質指標,測試普洱茶品質是否“表里如一”。

  本刊此次送檢的批次均為141批(指2014年生產的第1批產品)的大益、下關、老同志等3品牌普洱生茶經典款,檢測水浸出物、咖啡堿、茶多酚、兒茶素等幾項品質指標。(注:因截止2014年7月勐庫戎氏尚未出產2014年份有機茶,故未將其納入此項測評。)

  檢測結果顯示,3款普洱生茶經典款的水浸出物、咖啡堿均符合中國標準要求且含量相差很小,但茶多酚指標均低于現行中國標準規定。而茶多酚含量低,意味著普洱茶“茶氣”較弱。

  陳醇微澀的獨特口感,是眾多茶友熱衷普洱茶的重要原因,而這正是茶葉中的水浸出物、茶多酚、茶氨酸、咖啡堿、兒茶素等多種滋味成分相互作用的結果。

  水浸出物是普洱茶水溶性物質的總和,它包含茶多酚、可溶性糖、氨基酸、咖啡堿以及水溶性果膠等。

  曾就職于廣東茶葉進出口有限公司的茶葉工程師助理龍華清接受本刊記者采訪時認為,水浸出物含量的高低反映了普洱茶中可溶性物質的多少,標志著普洱茶茶湯的厚薄、滋味的濃強程度,是普洱茶茶湯滋味的綜合反映,從而在一定程度上反映普洱茶品質的優劣。

  “作為茶中呈味的主體物質,茶多酚屬性澀、苦。而兒茶素、茶黃素和咖啡堿的結合物是‘濃、強、鮮’的根源,品飲的感覺是活性”,龍華清解釋道,“

  通常我們把茶葉中的主要內含物質,通過其相應的呈味屬性,傳遞到感覺器官,這種對內含物質的綜合體驗被叫做‘茶氣’。茶氣是茶葉內含物質的同義詞。而對于茶氣的體驗,更多要依賴茶多酚的含量。”

  通過檢測水浸出物、咖啡堿、茶多酚、兒茶素這四個主要的品質指標可以看出,本刊此次送檢的141批大益、下關、老同志3品牌普洱生茶經典款品質相差不大,老同志的水浸出物相對較高。

  但根據此次結果,3品牌普洱生茶茶多酚指標分別為19.8%、18.1%、18.6%,均低于中國現行國家標準規定的28.0%。

  國標中為什么制定“茶多酚”大于或等于28.0%的限量要求?對此,大益茶葉集團旗下勐海茶廠相關負責人對《消費者報道》表示,這主要用來判定茶葉原料是否為云南大葉種,而且是對新茶的限制指標。

  據本刊記者了解,2008年以前,普洱茶并沒有國家標準,只有農業部行業標準和地方標準,直至2008年12月1日國家標準《GB/T 22111-2008地理標志產品普洱茶》實施。在國標中,“茶多酚”用新的檢測方法替代了舊方法。

  勐海茶廠方面表示,現行國標中普洱茶(生茶)理化指標“茶多酚”的限量是依據舊方法來制定的。

  “老方法與新方法的測定結果有一定差距,新方法是現行有效的方法。”對此,中華全國供銷合作總社杭州茶葉研究院副院長楊秀芳則對本刊記者說。而本刊此次“茶多酚”檢測就是采用的新方法。

  楊秀芳等人曾對茶多酚的新舊測定方法進行比較試驗,新標準測定的結果更穩定、更接近真實值。“新方法的測定結果大約為老標準方法測定結果的三分之二。”

  據此,本刊記者將此次檢測的茶多酚結果換算成老方法的結果,大益、下關、老同志3品牌的茶多酚含量分別約為28.2%、27.2%、27.9%,與現行標準值28.0%十分接近。

  勐海茶廠方面解釋其受檢產品茶多酚含量低的原因時說:“這批原料為多年陳曬青毛茶,曬青毛茶在自然存放的陳化過程中,茶多酚含量也會逐漸減少。茶多酚含量低是由于其轉化成其它保健物質,且含量越低,茶湯苦澀感降低、口感更為溫和。”

  “成分檢測項目在一定程度上與普洱茶某些品質項目呈正相關,但難于絕對評判其感官綜合品質。”有十幾年普洱茶研究經驗的華南農業大學副教授陳文品向本刊記者補充道。

  那么幾款茶葉的綜合品質如何?明日本刊將結合主觀評價結果為消費者收藏普洱提供消費建議。

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